LaBean Coffee Roasters Now at Aroma Thyme Bistro

I will be the first too admit that coffee is not one of my strong suits. I’m not much of a coffee drinker to begin with, so don't get a chance to really experience different coffees and understand their subtle differences. So today’s trip to LaBean Coffee’s headquarters was a special treat and learning experience for me.

Myself, Jamie and Kevin from Aroma Thyme Bistro traveled to LaBean Coffee Roasting headquarters in Philipsort NY, just a few miles down the road for a crash coarse in the finer points of quality environmentally friendly gourmet coffee. LaBean Coffee set up shop in May of this year, and is already bursting with more customers than they can shake a coffee grinder at! After our trip and tour we know why; it’s all about the perfect cup of coffee.

We have always served Fair Trade & Organic coffee at Aroma Thyme, and will continue to work with suppliers that meet those high standards. We also want to embrace the slow foods concept, and thus were looking into a more local roaster, and LaBean seems to fit the bill.

We showed up at 10:15 AM to a spotless coffee roasting plant with all sorts of the latest coffee making gadgets, and the delicious smell of fresh coffee beans in the roaster. This place is a FAO SCHWARZ toy store for the coffee aficionado in your life.

First up in this coffee adventure was a tour of the high tech machinery at LaBean, followed by a very intense lesson on the coffee bean itself. Who knew there was that much to know about the coffee bean?

After our education on the coffee bean we tasted four different coffees, each of them unique and tasty. The coffee tasting included two blends and two single destination coffees. The blends each had three different beans in them that were roasted to different levels to develop flavors that complement each other. After two hours of intense tasting we had gained a different view on, and a new appreciation for coffee. With the help and guidance of LaBean’s experts we are going to kick off a new coffee program here at Aroma Thyme. We will still be serving Fair Trade and Organic coffees, but will be upgrading both our coffee and the equipment used to brew it. We are even contemplating the addition of a fine French press coffee to our menu.

LaBean Coffee
(845)647-1500

Here are some tasting guidlines from "How To Be a Beverage Snob"

While you are tasting the coffee, here are the major characteristics you should be paying attention to:

Acidity - The sensation of dryness in the back and under the edges of your mouth. This is a desirable quality and not to be confused with sour (which is considered a bad quality of coffee). Acidity creates a lively, bright taste which without it, the coffee would taste flat.

Aroma – Without aroma, we could only taste sweet, sour, bitter and salty. This is where we get the subtle differences such as floral, nutty or fruity.

Body – The way the coffee feels in your mouth, its viscosity or heaviness. The best way to describe it is the comparison to how whole milk feels in your mouth compared to water. If you are unsure as to the level of body in the different coffees, add an equal amount of milk to each one and the one with the heavier body will retain more of its flavor when diluted.

Flavor – This is the overall perception of the three characteristics above. Flavor can be rich (full bodied), complex (multi-flavored), or balanced (no one characteristic over powers the other.

Here are some terms used to describe DESIRABLE flavor qualities:

Bright or dry – highly acidic leaving a dry aftertaste
Caramelly – caramel like or syrupy
Chocolaty – aftertaste similar to unsweetened chocolate or vanilla
Earthy – a soily-like quality (sometimes unfavorable)
Fragrant – an aroma ranging from floral to nutty to spicy, etc.
Fruity – having a citrus or berry scent
Mellow – a smooth taste lacking acidity but not flat
Nutty – similar to roasted nuts
Spicy – an exotic aroma of various spices
Sweet – a lack of harshness
Wild – a gamey flavor rarely, but sometimes considered favorable
Winy – aftertaste resembling a mature wine

Here are some terms used to describe UNDESIRABLE flavor qualities:

Bitter – aftertaste perceived on the back of the tongue
Bland – neutral in flavor
Carbony – burnt charcoal flavors
Earthy – a musty, soily-like quality
Flat – lacking aroma, acidity, and aftertaste
Grassy – aroma and taste of grass
Harsh – a caustic, raspy quality
Muddy – thick and flat
Musty – slightly stuffy smell (sometimes desirable in aged coffees)
Rubbery – a smell of burnt rubber
Sour – a tart flavor such as unripe fruit
Turpeny – a flavor resembling turpentine
Watery – a lack of body
Wild – a gamey flavor

Ellenville Farmers Market, July 27th 2008

Ellenville Farmers Market Blog

Wow I just escaped the rain that came pouring down at 1:30.

I think it is great that I can go a block away from my restaurant in Ellenville and buy local farm fresh produce. It works out more than perfect, I have a busy Saturday night and run out of the essentials like lettuce, green beans and raspberries. So a quick walk and a few boxes later I am restocked for Sunday dinner at Aroma Thyme Bistro.

Here are some pics of this week at the Ellenville Farmers Market.

Saunderskill Farm

Burd's Farm

Kiss My Face

Farm-Free Salmon Group Ramps Up Efforts-Marcus Comments

Save Snake River Salmon

SeaFood Business

July 22, 2008 - Christine Blank for SeafoodSource

Farm-Free Salmon Group Ramps Up Efforts

An anti-farmed salmon organization aims to take its "Farm-Free Salmon Pledge" to restaurants and retailers nationwide after taping a Rachael Ray segment on July 20.

"Once the no-farmed pledge grows to 50 restaurants, then to 100, then hundreds worldwide, less farmed salmon will be purchased," said Kenny Belov, co-owner and general manager of "Fish." in Sausalito, Calif.

Belov formed "Fish or Cut Bait" (www.focb.org), an organization in which retailers and restaurants pledge to use only wild salmon, in March when the California and Oregon salmon fisheries were closed for the season."With farmed salmon being used so much now, the demand for wild salmon is going to become almost nonexistent," says Belov.

While Belov and the 10 other restaurant members of FOCB believe the farmed salmon industry is the cause of some of the wild salmon industry's problems.

"The demands of the salmon farms are so great [that] you are depleting wild stocks of fish such as anchovy and herring to make this fishmeal," says Belov. Salmon farmers, meanwhile, are not taking the accusations lying down. "Most of the environmental data on salmon farming's negative impact is 20 to 25 years old. Anything that reduces consumer choices as opposed to expanding them is a dangerous trend," says Sebastian Belle, executive director of the Maine Aquaculture Association in Hallowell, Maine.

To get the word out about the Farm-Free Salmon Pledge, Belov taped a segment focusing on FOCB as well as Fish's sustainability efforts for "Rachael's Vacation" on The Food Network. Belov is also trying to get restaurants and retailers to sign up at events such as the Salmon Aid Festival, which was held June 1.

Marcus Guiliano comments on this article:

I have always been involved with, and supported these types’ of initiatives and pledges, as it is imperative we protect our wild (natural) fish species. I signed on to the “Take a pass on Chilean Sea Bass” in the late 90’s, and will join this effort to protect wild salmon.

It has been our policy here at Aroma Thyme to only serve wild Alaskan Salmon on our menu. We will not compromise on this principle, will not serve our patrons farm raised salmon. We support Kenny Belov’s efforts, and hope other restaurants will join in the cause by taking the, "Farm-Free Salmon Pledge".

Buying Wild Alaskan Salmon is an adventure. Every time we purchase Alaskan salmon it comes from a different area. You can take a virtual tour of Alaska as you search for fresh caught wild salmon as the season unfolds. From Sitka to Cooks Inlet to the Alutetian Islands and all the different rivers in between it is an exciting and educational adventure that every chef should take. Salmon Connoisseurs prefer fresh catches from certain salmon runs, such as the Yukon and Copper Rivers. One of my own favorite areas for salmon is the early run in the Stikine River.

Help us tour bountiful Alaska by enjoying the wonderful fresh catches on our menu here at the Aroma Thyme Bistro.

Chef Marcus and Jamie Guiliano
Aroma Thyme Bistro
165 Canal Street
Ellenville, New York 12428
(845) 647-3000

More Farmed Salmon Threaten Wild Salmon

Escape of 30,000 B.C. Salmon Under Investigation

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July 7, 2008 - British Columbia's Environment Ministry is investigating last week's escape of about 30,000 Atlantic salmon from a fish farm 125 miles northwest of Vancouver operated by Marine Harvest Canada.

Marine Harvest, the world's largest salmon farming company, is cooperating with the investigation, Clare Backman, director of environmental compliance at the Marine Harvest office in Campbell River on Vancouver Island, told the Associated Press.

"We, too, want to know the cause, and then they will determine whether or not there are grounds to go forward with charges," Backman said.

Company workers found that an anchor securing the net pen slipped into deeper water on Tuesday, pulling a corner of the pen far enough below the surface for the fish to swim away. A seiner hired by the company recaptured fewer than 400 of the fish, which were mature and weighed about 9 pounds each, Backman said.

The 30,000 Atlantic salmon are valued at just under $500,000, and repositioning the pen and catching the escaped fish will cost about $200,000, he added. About 450,000 Atlantic salmon remain at the farm in Frederick Arm between the Broughton Archipelago and Desolation Sound on the mainland.

The incident renewed calls by conservationists to end marine fish farming in British Columbia.

"The B.C. government can't continue to put our wild salmon and marine ecosystem at risk by pretending that they are addressing the problems of open net-cage salmon farming with tighter regulations," said Catherine Stewart of the Living Oceans Society. "This latest escape is another example of the need for a better system for farming salmon and not another Band-Aid."

The Atlantic Salmon Watch Program run by the Canadian Fisheries Department reported that more than 1.4 million Atlantic salmon escaped into British Columbia waters between 1987 and 2002, and the Ministry of Agriculture and Lands' most recent statistics reported 19,000 escaped fish in 2006.

Organic Wine, It Keeps Growing!

I just found this article about Bonterra Vineyards. I have been a fan of their wines since 1998 when I first got involved in organic food. In fact the first wine dinner I did was with Bonterra wines in 1999 in Colorado.

We do have a 1997 Cabernet Sauvignon 3 litter on our list that is probably getting really good. Remember 1997 was an incredible year for California.

Since Bonterra started their organic practices many other vineyards have followed. The choices are now endless with organic options. Be careful because organic grapes does not mean organic wine.

Marcus Guiliano
Aroma Thyme Bistro


Bonterra Vineyards: Ground Zero
for Organic Grapegrowing
by Eleanor & Ray Heald
July 4, 2008

In the Russian River benchlands of California’s Mendocino County, there’s serene beauty evoking images of unspoiled land. Thus it comes as no surprise that a winery there has become a leader in the organic and biodynamic grape-farming movement. Founding winemaker Bob Blue shares his perspectives on more than two decades of progress in eco-agricultural grape growing and winemaking at Bonterra Vineyards.

Appellation America: Some consumers are confused by jargon phrases referring to organic grape farming. What is the current nomenclature used for this type of farming?

Bob Blue (BB): Wines with the phrase “made with (or from) organically grown grapes” on the main label are produced at a certified winery, under National Organic Program regulations and may have added sulfites, but at levels less than 100 parts per million (ppm) total and 35ppm free to prevent oxidation and ensure shelf stability.

Grapes that are considered organically grown are in accordance with the California Health and Safety Code, Sec. 26569 and are certified by California Certified Organic Farmers (CCOF), a third-party inspection and endorsement organization with exacting standards. The certifier must be listed on a back label. Certification requires a three-year period of regular inspection to ensure that regulations are being met.

AA: What are the elements of certification today?

BB: Organically-grown grapes are produced without the use of artificial fertilizers or synthetic chemicals, which include pesticides, fungicides, herbicides, soil fumigants and growth-regulating
Cover crops in McNab Vineyard sustain ecological balance – and beauty - in organic vineyards.hormones. Emphasis is put on building a living soil and an environment encouraging beneficial organisms in the vineyard, establishing a natural pest-predator balance.

AA: How does an organically certified winery like Bonterra differ from another wine producer who only practices organically-certified grapegrowing?

BB: What that producer cannot do is put the “made with” wording on the front label. On the back label, they are allowed to state the percentage of organically-grown grapes. The concept there is similar to organic produce that is not brought directly to market by the organic farmer, but is sold to an uncertified handler. The product is not really changed, but to continue the organic link, the handlers must also be certified. There must be product integrity every step of the way.

AA: Consumers encounter the expression “organic wines.” What does this mean?

BB: Wines that are labeled “organic” follow a similar grape farming regime as wines made from organically-grown grapes. However, no additional sulfur dioxide is permitted during fermentation, despite the fact that some sulfites are produced naturally during the fermentation period. Organic wines are made at a certified winery under National Organic Program regulation and no sulfites may be added. For reasons of preventing oxidation and bottled wine stability in the marketplace, Bonterra has sulfite levels below the certifiable amount.

Any use of the term “organic” on a wine label or in advertising of wine must comply with the United States Department of Agriculture's (USDA) National Organic Program rules as interpreted by the USDA.

AA: What is the location of Bonterra’s certified organically-farmed vineyards?

BB: In Mendocino County AVA, Bonterra Vineyards owns or leases more than 1,000 certified acres of organically-farmed grapes. More than 500 additional certified organic vineyards, farmed by independent growers in Mendocino County, also supply Bonterra with organically-grown grapes. We source some certified organic Sauvignon Blanc and Viognier from Lake County AVA. Everything that Bonterra does is certified organic.

AA: In what year did Bonterra become certified by California Certified Organic Farmers (CCOF)?

BB: Bonterra started farming organically in 1987 and the first vineyards were certified in 1990. In those days, though, we could not certify the winery, and could not until 1998.

AA: What are the most important practices in Bonterra’s organic farming?

BB: Whenever someone chooses to farm, they impact the native environment. We strive to minimize the impacts. We start by soil management to strengthen the vines with addition of organic matter from decomposing winter cover crops, water and minerals. When organic matter increases so do microbial populations, which break down organic matter into soil-enriching humus.

Healthy grape vines resist disease pressures from insects, and pest populations are checked by predator pests. To increase the population of predator species, we create an attractive environment by planting cover crops and flowers that are part of the predator species diet.

AA: How are vineyard weeds controlled?

BB: With low impact mowing and hand-hoeing.

AA: With what products are vineyards sprayed?

BB: To prevent mildew, we apply organic sulfur and occasionally use plant extracts for insect control. Fungal diseases such as mildew and Botrytis are controlled by vineyard practices that maximize air flow in the canopy and fruit zone and the use of stylet oils. We work in the prevention mode. We have to. With organic farming, there are no quick fixes.

AA: With The McNab ($45 and blend of 47 percent Merlot, 36 percent Cabernet Sauvignon and 17 percent Petite Sirah), Bonterra introduces the consumer to the concept of a biodynamically-farmed vineyard, certified by the Demeter Association, or what might be called holistic farming. How does this differ from the organic practices at Bonterra’s other ranches and vineyards?

BB: Biodynamics does much of what Bonterra already does for pest and disease management and cover crops, but extends it to the development and management of our vineyards as a whole. We’ve brought in livestock, such as sheep and chickens, to eat cover crops in winter when vines are dormant. After bud break at the beginning of the growing
David Koball, Bonterra’s Director of Mendocino County Vineyards.season, animals maintain vineyard periphery and the face of the property dam. There’s also a greater diversification of plants, including olive trees, persimmons, apples and peaches.

David Koball, Bonterra’s Director of Mendocino County Vineyards, also uses two field sprays, one is cow manure made into a tea and sprayed on the ground to help stimulate organic matter decomposition. The other is ground up silica quartz sprayed on foliage to stimulate photosynthesis. A number of fermented herbs are made into a tincture and sprayed onto the compost.

AA: Why are you blending grapes from two AVAs for Sauvignon Blanc?

BB: Our Lake County sources have deep soils that produce Sauvignon Blanc with powerful gooseberry, grapefruit and cat pee characteristics. Mendocino has a lot of lemon grass quality, citrus and melon. I really like southern hemisphere Sauvignon Blancs and I wanted to take a run at doing a wine in that style. Bonterra 2007 Sauvignon Blanc ($13) is appellation driven in the sense that Lake County characteristics can’t be ignored but they are mitigated by Mendocino fruit.

AA: Are Lake County characteristics driven by the soil composition?

BB: Soil is heavier and deep black: what we like to call “pear ground.” Vines therefore have a big canopy and grapes have intense character - almost too much, so we back it off with our Mendocino fruit which does not yield this individuality.

AA: Are there other dual-appellation wines in the Bonterra portfolio?

BB: Viognier from Lake County AVA, but 73 percent of the fruit is Mendocino, giving it the regional stamp of apricots, peaches and what I like to call sunny flavors.

AA: What are the other principal Bonterra wines in the portfolio?

BB: There’s 2006 Chardonnay with lemon, citrus and baked green apple characters. Zinfandel 2006 which was sold only in Canada and some parts of Europe until the 2005 vintage. It’s not jammy but has noticeable peppery spice. Merlot 2006 showcases lots of red cherry aromas and flavors from the McNab Ranch. Syrah 2005 has smoky notes surrounding blackberry and raspberry fruit. Cabernet Sauvignon 2006 is generous but not over the top with 13.9 percent alcohol and loads of dark berry fruit and an elegant finish.

AA: What is your take-home message about Bonterra’s wine made from certified organically-grown grapes?


Echinacea flowers maintain a pest-predator balance at Bonterra’s organic vineyards. BB: I’ll never say that Bonterra’s practice of organic viticulture is perfect or that it has all the answers. It’s a set of rules and one can argue about them. And yes, some are totally judgmental. Currently though, certified organic viticulture is a standard that has been agreed upon. Viewed in a positive way, organic viticulture is best practices and a means of stepping away from the grape growing approaches of the 1950s through 1980s when the use of chemicals turned soil into cement because we viewed it as inanimate. We planted and fed the plants and forgot to take care of the soil. Today, both organic and biodynamic farming methods focus on healthy soil to produce better tasting grapes and wines.